That "Low Disk Space" warning isn't just annoying — a nearly full drive makes your computer genuinely slower. Windows needs free space for virtual memory, temporary files, and updates. When the drive fills up below 10-15% free, performance drops noticeably: programs take longer to open, saving files becomes unreliable, and Windows updates can fail entirely.
The good news: most computers are hoarding gigabytes of junk that can be safely deleted. Here's how to find and remove it, step by step, on both Windows and Mac.
Step 1: See What's Using Your Space
Before you start deleting things, find out where the space is going. It's usually not what you'd expect.
Windows 11/10:
- Go to Settings → System → Storage
- Windows shows a breakdown of what's using space: Apps, Temporary files, Documents, etc.
- Click each category to see details
For a more detailed view, download WinDirStat (free) or TreeSize Free. These tools scan your entire drive and show you a visual map of every file and folder, sorted by size. You'll immediately spot the culprits — often a 20GB folder you forgot about or a game you haven't played in two years.
Mac:
- Click the Apple menu → About This Mac → More Info → Storage Settings (or System Settings → General → Storage on newer versions)
- macOS shows a color-coded bar with categories: Applications, Documents, System Data, etc.
- Click the i icon next to each category for details
Step 2: Empty the Recycle Bin / Trash
This sounds obvious, but you'd be amazed how many people have never emptied it. When you delete a file in Windows or Mac, it doesn't actually free up space — it moves to the Recycle Bin (Windows) or Trash (Mac) where it sits until you manually empty it.
Windows: Right-click the Recycle Bin on your desktop → Empty Recycle Bin. If you can't see the Recycle Bin icon, search for "Recycle Bin" in the Start menu.
Mac: Right-click the Trash icon in your Dock → Empty Trash. Or press Cmd+Shift+Delete in Finder.
We've seen customers recover 30-50GB just from this step alone. If you've been using your computer for a few years without emptying, it adds up fast.
Step 3: Clean the Downloads Folder
The Downloads folder is the digital junk drawer of your computer. Every installer, PDF, zip file, and email attachment you've ever downloaded is probably still sitting there.
How to clean it:
- Open your Downloads folder (Windows:
Win+Ethen click Downloads; Mac: open Finder and click Downloads in the sidebar) - Sort by Date Modified (oldest first) — anything more than a few months old is almost certainly safe to delete
- Sort by Size (largest first) — look for .exe installers, .iso files, and .zip archives you've already extracted
- Select everything you don't need and delete it
Step 4: Clear Browser Cache
Your web browser stores cached copies of every website you visit — images, scripts, stylesheets, and more. This is supposed to make sites load faster on return visits, but the cache can grow to several gigabytes over time.
Chrome: Press Ctrl+Shift+Delete (Windows) or Cmd+Shift+Delete (Mac) → select All time → check Cached images and files (leave passwords and autofill data unchecked) → click Delete data.
Firefox: Press Ctrl+Shift+Delete → select Everything in the Time range → check Cache → click Clear Now.
Edge: Press Ctrl+Shift+Delete → select All time → check Cached images and files → click Clear now.
This typically frees 1-5GB depending on how long it's been since you last cleared it. Sites might load slightly slower on your next visit, but the cache rebuilds quickly.
Step 5: Remove Unused Programs
Installed programs take up space even when you're not using them. Games are the worst offenders — a single modern game can be 50-100GB.
Windows:
- Go to Settings → Apps → Installed apps
- Sort by Size (largest first)
- Uninstall anything you don't use — trial software that came with your computer, games you finished, old versions of programs you've since updated
Mac:
- Open Finder → Applications
- Sort by Size (View → Show View Options → Sort By: Size)
- Drag unused apps to the Trash
- For a more thorough uninstall that also removes preference files and caches, use AppCleaner (free) — drag the app onto AppCleaner and it finds all related files
Step 6: Windows Update Cleanup
Windows keeps backup copies of old updates so you can roll back if something goes wrong. After a few years, these backups can consume 10-30GB. Once you've confirmed your system is stable after updates, this space can be safely reclaimed.
Method 1 — Disk Cleanup (easiest):
- Search for Disk Cleanup in the Start menu and open it
- Select your C: drive and click OK
- Click Clean up system files (this restarts the scan with admin privileges)
- Check Windows Update Cleanup, Previous Windows installation(s) (if present), and Temporary files
- Click OK → Delete Files
Method 2 — Command line (more thorough):
- Open Command Prompt as Administrator
- Run:
DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /StartComponentCleanup /ResetBase - This removes all superseded versions of every component — more aggressive than Disk Cleanup, but you lose the ability to uninstall previously installed updates
The /ResetBase option is irreversible, so only use it after you've confirmed everything is working properly. On a system with years of accumulated updates, this can free 10-20GB.
Step 7: Handle Large Hidden Files
Some of the biggest space consumers on your drive are hidden system files that don't show up in normal file browsing:
hiberfil.sys (Windows Hibernation File)
This file is typically 40-75% of your total RAM size. If you have 16GB of RAM, hiberfil.sys is probably 6-12GB. If you never use hibernation (most desktop users don't), you can disable it:
- Open Command Prompt as Administrator
- Run:
powercfg /hibernate off - The file is deleted immediately
Note: This also disables Windows Fast Startup. Your computer will take a few seconds longer to boot, but you'll recover a significant chunk of space. To re-enable later: powercfg /hibernate on.
pagefile.sys (Virtual Memory)
The page file acts as overflow for your RAM. By default, Windows manages its size automatically, and it can grow to 8-16GB on systems with lots of RAM. You can set a manual size limit, but don't disable it entirely — Windows needs it for stability.
- Open System Properties → Advanced → Performance Settings → Advanced → Virtual Memory → Change
- Uncheck "Automatically manage" and set a custom size (2048-4096MB is usually sufficient if you have 16GB+ of RAM)
- Restart to apply
Windows.old Folder
After a major Windows update (like upgrading from Windows 10 to 11), Windows keeps the entire previous installation in a folder called Windows.old. This can be 20-40GB. If you're not planning to roll back, remove it via Disk Cleanup (it appears as "Previous Windows installation(s)").
tmutil listlocalsnapshots / then tmutil deletelocalsnapshots [date]).
Step 8: Move Files to External or Cloud Storage
If you've cleaned everything possible and you're still running low, the answer isn't deleting more — it's moving files off the drive.
- External SSD: A 1TB portable SSD ($60-80) is the fastest, most reliable option for moving large file collections — photos, videos, music, and old projects. Keep it unplugged when not in use.
- OneDrive (Windows): Turn on Files On-Demand (Settings → OneDrive icon in system tray → Settings → Sync and backup). Files show in your file explorer but only download when you open them — saving space while keeping everything accessible. Requires 5GB free (or Microsoft 365 for 1TB).
- iCloud (Mac): Enable Optimize Mac Storage in System Settings → Apple ID → iCloud → iCloud Drive. macOS automatically offloads older files to iCloud and downloads them on demand. Requires a paid iCloud plan for meaningful storage.
When to Upgrade Your Drive
If you're constantly fighting for space despite regular cleanup, your drive is simply too small for how you use your computer. The good news: upgrading to a larger SSD is one of the most cost-effective improvements you can make.
- 256GB drive: Too small for most people in 2026. Windows alone uses 30-40GB, and a handful of apps plus a photo library fills the rest quickly.
- 512GB: Comfortable for light users. Enough for Office, web browsing, email, and a moderate photo collection.
- 1TB: The sweet spot. Handles everything most people throw at it, including games, photos, and video editing projects. 1TB NVMe SSDs cost $60-80.
An SSD upgrade also makes your computer dramatically faster — not just more spacious. If you're still running a traditional spinning hard drive, upgrading to an SSD is the single biggest performance improvement available, often more impactful than adding RAM or upgrading the CPU.